{"id":3490,"date":"2026-10-23T10:39:59","date_gmt":"2026-10-23T02:39:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.espacovipcv.com\/blog\/?p=3490"},"modified":"2026-10-23T10:39:59","modified_gmt":"2026-10-23T02:39:59","slug":"what-are-the-common-materials-used-for-cnc-parts-43f2-f177a4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.espacovipcv.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/23\/what-are-the-common-materials-used-for-cnc-parts-43f2-f177a4\/","title":{"rendered":"What are the common materials used for CNC parts?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey there, if you\u2019re here, odds are you\u2019ve either got a part that needs machining, a project where off-the-shelf parts just won\u2019t cut it, or you\u2019re just starting to dig into how CNC machining works. As a CNC parts supplier, I get asked all the time: \u201cWhat materials do you actually use for CNC parts?\u201d Like, I know it\u2019s easy to see a million part listings and go \u201cwait, is aluminum the only thing? No way.\u201d Spoiler: it\u2019s not. Over the 10+ years I\u2019ve been in this game, I\u2019ve worked with every material under the sun, and I\u2019ve learned that picking the right one isn\u2019t just about price\u2014it\u2019s about what your part\u2019s gonna do. Is it holding up in a hot engine? Is it going on a medical device that touches skin? Is it a random bracket that just needs to hold a shelf? Let\u2019s break down the most common ones we deal with daily, no fancy jargon just straight talk. CNC Parts<\/a><\/p>\n

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First up, aluminum. This is like the workhorse of CNC parts, right? It\u2019s the one we reach for 70% of the time, easy. Why? Because it\u2019s cheap, it machines like a dream\u2014you don\u2019t have to crank the CNC machine super hard to cut it, it doesn\u2019t gum up tools, and it\u2019s lightweight. Oh, and it\u2019s strong for its weight, which is why it\u2019s everywhere: aerospace parts, consumer electronics (hello, your iPhone frame), automotive brackets, even custom bike parts. Wait, but not all aluminum is the same. The most common grades we use are 6061 and 7075. 6061 is the general-purpose one\u2014great for most stuff, weldable, corrosion-resistant (we usually throw an anodized finish on it if it needs extra scratch protection), and it\u2019s not crazy expensive. That\u2019s the one we recommend 9 times out of 10 for beginners or people who just need a solid part without overpaying. 7075 is the tough guy\u2014way stronger than 6061, almost as strong as steel, but still lighter. We use that for high-stress stuff, like aerospace components or racing parts, but it\u2019s way harder to machine, so it costs more and takes a little longer. Pro tip from us: if your part isn\u2019t under constant heavy stress, stick with 6061. Save the 7075 for when you really need it.<\/p>\n

Next, steel. Wait, not just plain steel\u2014there are so many types, and it\u2019s another big one we use a ton. Steel is way stronger than aluminum, so it\u2019s for parts that need to hold a lot of weight or take abuse. The most common steel grade we work with is A36, which is low-carbon steel. It\u2019s cheap, easy to machine, and great for things like brackets, supports, or frames that don\u2019t need super high strength. But it rusts like crazy if you leave it out, so we always add a finish\u2014powder coating, zinc plating, whatever\u2014unless you\u2019re fine with a raw metal look that\u2019ll turn brown after a month. Then there\u2019s 303 and 304 stainless steel. 304 is the workhorse stainless\u2014corrosion-resistant, non-magnetic, great for parts that touch food or chemicals, like valves, hardware for kitchens, or medical equipment parts. It\u2019s a bit harder to machine than A36, so it\u2019s pricier, but worth it for the resistance. 303 is the free-machining version of 304\u2014has additives that make it easier to cut, so we use that for small, detailed parts where precision matters, like screws or pins. Then there\u2019s tool steel, like D2 or H13. Those are for parts that need to be super hard and durable, like molds, cutting tools, or high-wear parts. They\u2019re way more expensive, and take forever to machine because they\u2019re so tough, but when you need something that won\u2019t wear out, tool steel is the way to go. Fair warning though\u2014raw tool steel is super brittle, so it\u2019s not good for parts that get dropped or hit hard.<\/p>\n

Moving on to plastics. A lot of people don\u2019t realize how much we machine plastic parts, but it\u2019s huge. Plastics are lightweight, corrosion-resistant, non-conductive, and cheap, so they\u2019re perfect for all kinds of stuff where metal is overkill. The top plastic we use is ABS, right? That\u2019s the stuff Lego is made of, for reference. ABS is rigid, impact-resistant, easy to machine, and cheap. We use it for everything from custom enclosures for electronics to prototype parts. It can be a bit flimsy if you need something super strong, though. Next up, acrylic (also called PMMA). Acrylic is clear, which is why it\u2019s for display cases, windows, or parts where you need visibility. It\u2019s easy to machine, but it scratches super easily\u2014we have to be careful with tool speeds and finishes, and we always recommend a polished edge if it\u2019s going to be seen. It\u2019s also way more brittle than ABS, so it cracks if you drop it. Then there\u2019s Delrin (acetal) \u2014 that\u2019s a fan favorite. It\u2019s rigid, low-friction, doesn\u2019t wear out fast, and it\u2019s self-lubricating. Oh, that\u2019s a big one. If you need a part that slides against another part, like gears, bushings, or bearings, Delrin is the go-to. It\u2019s more expensive than ABS, but way worth it for those applications. And lastly for plastics, nylon. Nylon is super strong, flexible, and impact-resistant. It\u2019s similar to Delrin but not as slippery, and it can handle higher temperatures. We use nylon for parts that need a bit of give, like hinges or parts that will flex occasionally. Just a heads up: some nylon grades absorb water, so if your part is going to be in a humid or wet environment, make sure you get a water-resistant grade.<\/p>\n

Wait, what about the more exotic stuff? Because sometimes regular metal and plastic just won\u2019t cut it. Like brass. Brass is a copper-zinc alloy, super easy to machine, has that nice gold color, and it\u2019s corrosion-resistant. We use it for small, detailed parts\u2014like fittings, connectors, or decorative hardware. It\u2019s pricier than aluminum, but it\u2019s way easier to work with than stainless, so it\u2019s perfect for tiny parts that need precision. Then there\u2019s copper. Copper is mostly used for electrical parts, right? Because it\u2019s an amazing conductor of electricity and heat. We make bus bars, heat sinks, or electrical connectors out of copper. It machines well, but it\u2019s soft, so it can deform if you apply too much pressure. And then there\u2019s titanium. Titanium is the fancy one\u2014light, super strong, corrosion-resistant, way stronger than aluminum, and it\u2019s bio-compatible. That\u2019s why it\u2019s everywhere in medical devices, aerospace, and high-end racing parts. But it\u2019s a pain to machine\u2014way more expensive than any other material, it eats up tools like crazy, and it takes forever. We only work with titanium when a customer specifically needs it for a critical application\u2014like a hip implant or a race car part that needs to be light and tough. You don\u2019t want to use titanium for a random bracket, trust me. It\u2019s overkill and way too expensive.<\/p>\n

Now, let\u2019s talk about when to use what, because that\u2019s the part most people struggle with. Last month, I had a customer come to us needing a bracket for a robot arm. They first wanted aluminum, but the arm was going to hold 50 pounds, so we told them A36 steel would be cheaper and stronger. Another customer needed a gear for a small toy\u2014ABS would have been too flimsy, so we recommended Delrin, which lasted 10 times longer than any other plastic they tried. And a medical client needed a part that would be sterilized 100 times a year\u2014we went with 316 stainless steel, which is even more corrosion-resistant than 304, because it can handle autoclaving.<\/p>\n

Wait, I should also mention prototype parts, because a lot of first-timers are making prototypes and don\u2019t know what to use. For prototypes, we almost always recommend aluminum or ABS. They\u2019re cheap, machine fast, and you can test the part quickly. If you need a prototype that looks like the final product, maybe use a higher grade, but for testing fit and function, aluminum 6061 or ABS is perfect. No need to waste money on titanium for a prototype that\u2019s just going to be discarded after testing.<\/p>\n

Common mistakes I see people make: picking the cheapest material without thinking about the application, or picking a material that\u2019s overkill. Like, last quarter a customer came to us with a part that was just a shelf bracket, and they wanted it in titanium. I had to talk them down\u2014titanium would have cost 10 times more than steel, and the bracket would have never needed that kind of strength. Another mistake: not thinking about finishes. Like, aluminum is great, but if you need it to not rust, you need anodizing. Raw steel will rust in a week if left outside. Most materials don\u2019t come ready for harsh environments out of the box\u2014you have to add a finish, and that\u2019s part of the cost, too.<\/p>\n

As a CNC parts supplier, our whole job is to help you pick the right material, not just machine whatever you ask for. We\u2019ve seen too many people waste money on the wrong material, or end up with a part that breaks because they picked the wrong stuff. So if you\u2019re working on a project, whether it\u2019s a small hobby thing or a big industrial part, don\u2019t guess at materials. Shoot us a message, tell us what your part is going to do, what environment it\u2019s in, how many you need, and we\u2019ll walk you through the best options, the costs, the lead times\u2014all of it. No pushy sales stuff, just straight answers from people who\u2019ve been doing this for years and know what works.<\/p>\n

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At the end of the day, the material you pick is the foundation of your CNC part. You can have the most precise machining in the world, but if you used the wrong material, your part is going to fail. Whether it\u2019s aluminum, steel, plastic, or something more exotic, there\u2019s a perfect material for every job. Don\u2019t overcomplicate it, but don\u2019t cut corners on the material either. If you need help figuring it out, we\u2019re here. Hit us up to discuss your next CNC part project\u2014we\u2019re happy to help you get exactly what you need, on time, and within budget.<\/p>\n

Five-axis Machining<\/a> References:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Kalpakjian, S., & Schmid, S. R. (2020). Manufacturing Processes for Engineering Materials. Pearson Education.<\/li>\n
  2. State Manufacturing Council. (2022). CNC Machining Material Selection Guide. National Association of Manufacturers.<\/li>\n
  3. American Society for Metals. (2021). Metals Handbook: Volume 2 \u2013 Properties and Selection: Nonferrous Alloys and Special-Purpose Materials. ASM International.<\/li>\n
  4. Plastics Industry Association. (2023). CNC Machining of Thermoplastics: Best Practices and Material Properties. PIA.<\/li>\n
  5. Aerospace Industries Association. (2022). Materials for Aerospace CNC Components: Performance Standards. AIA.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \n

    Dongguan Tuoyue Hardware Technology Co., Ltd.<\/a>
    We are one of the most experienced CNC parts manufacturers and suppliers in China, specialized in providing high quality customized products for global clients. We warmly welcome you to buy high-grade CNC parts at competitive price from our factory.
    Address: No.2, Lane 7, Industrial Road, Lingtou Village, Qiaotou Town, Dongguan City, Guangdong Province
    E-mail: 346320463@qq.com
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.toyuehardware.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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